Is My Treehouse Plan Safe?

Question from Greg, Bellevue, WA:

Building a treehouse for the kids; but now that my wife has researched a little is freaked out that what I’m doing isn’t safe so I’ll ask for advice on the basic support structure.

Three cedars approx. 50-70 ft tall, 14″-18″ dia. at 12′ off the ground where the main beams are in a triangle roughly 12’x8’x7’. The beams are 4×6 and are attached w/8″ FastenMaster Timberlok screws directly against the trunk (3 staggered at each point approx 2″ apart, and in hindsight from what I’ve read I realize this is not ideal; question ‘do I change it now?’), these screws have a rated sheer factor of 3K lbs and pullout factor of 1,500 lbs ea. with only 2″ of thread embedded. I used these because they are about 3/16″ in dia. rather than drill 1 large hole (and I had them in the shop). The beams were placed on the outside of the trees w/the floor joists attached to 3/4″ ply overlapping the beams, but not attached to them to allow movement effectively making a floating lid over the beams. The main question is, at 12′ off the ground on trees this size are those Timberloks substantial enough (I don’t know the sheer factor of a single 3/4″ or 1” bolt and also in hindsight 1 penetration is better than 3; again ‘do I change it now?’) or do I need to rethink this before going further. We’ve had some good wind and it seems to move just fine, I’ve been in the construction trade for 20 yrs, but I’ve never put 1,500 lbs of structure/people/snow/whatever in a tree before and I was making it up as I went….

I attached a sketch to help clarify

Plan sent in by Greg to ask if treehouse attachments are safe

Hi Greg,

I’ll tell you what I think would be safe for your treehouse, and then you can decide whether to act on it or not (and what you’re going to tell your wife in reality).

1) The shear rating on a fastener is meaningless unless the load is applied in shear. Due to the softness of a tree’s outer tissues, there is probably some leverage and bending going on which reduces the safety factor. I think that Timberloks are completely insufficient for what you are doing and you’re asking for a disaster… Even though it has held up so far, I have no confidence that it will remain that way over time and as you add weight (2 separate issues). I would recommend larger fasteners, no doubt. An example might be a treehouse bolt such as a 3″x9″ TAB or 6″x9″ TAB. These have the advantage of being backed up or extended if necessary as the tree grows or as you decide to add the 2nd & 3rd stories to your fort. In this case, I would say yes, change it now. (with the right tools, you can temporarily suspend each corner while you change fasteners, so as not to lower what you’ve already built to the ground).

2) I would recommend using a larger beam on a 12′ span. Something more like a 4×10 / 4×12. If there is any doubt about sizing of beams to ensure safety, then please consult a local engineer or your town’s building department for the best advice. I’ve seen treehouses built with undersized beams and you will likely experience higher than normal deflection (bounciness) and it will sag in the middle over time. The 4×6 probably won’t fall down, but why not make it feel safe and remain flat over time? This is one that I may or may not change now, that’s up to you and your building department.

3) Allowing movement is a good idea, so you’re on the right track. I would recommend using a floating bracket on the fasteners, which allows a low friction interface between the beams and the attachment bolts. This is the system that I would use if I was building it for you.

4) Lastly, I see you have 3 beams up there. Chances are, I bet you only need 2 of them. You may need to adjust which side of each tree the two beams are attached to, but for a normal joist layout, it will be just as safe with 2 beams as with three. That is cheaper to buy hardware for and better for your trees since you’re only making 4 attachments instead of 6.

Best Wishes building a safe treehouse, and please reply here and let us know how it goes.

Dan Wright

16 Responses to “Is My Treehouse Plan Safe?”

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  1. Bob Finch says:

    2 years ago we put a treehouse platform on our land. We’re finally ready to build a house on top, but I want to double check things to see if I need to make any changes before proceeding.
    We have three 14″-18″ HemFir’s, each with a 1×6 TAB installed. I put a 6″x6″ post in concrete for a 4th beam support. Two 4″x6″x16′ beams span about 12 feet between supports. I put 2″x6″x12′ joists, 16″oc, between the beams, which are about 10′ apart. So the joists are about 2′ cantilevered on one beam. Also, when I put up the beams, I just couldn’t get myself to pay $100 each for the floating bracket, so I made my own from some gate steel I had. I used an old IKEA nylon cutting board to create friction plates. The trees seem healthy. The TAB collars are somewhat “consumed” by the tree, but everything is sealed around the collars.

    We want to build a 9’x12′ house, with one of the 12′ sides sitting on top of one of the beams. It will be 9′ high on one 12′ side, sloping to 11′ high on the other 12′ side. It will be a very basic structure with lapped cedar siding, rough on the inside, a metal shed roof with transom windows on the high side, and a lot of opening windows and probably some type of french door to open to the outside.

    I’m wondering if the 4″x6″ beams are too undersized for this application. I haven’t blocked the joists yet, and the structure (currently with old 5/4″ decking) feels a little “wonky”. Do you think it is safe? Not knowing how heavy the structure will be, can you make any guesses on deflection? Would it help if I scabbed a 2″x12″ to each of the beams? Or…? How about anything else you’ve read. My wife just wants to get the house going, but I’m feeling like anything we add is potentially something we’ll have to redo, until I feel good about the underlying structure.


    • thb98il1Tr3e says:

      Hi Bob,

      You’ve done a pretty good job explaining the issues, but I do wish I had a diagram showing beam and joist layout, and a couple photos. In general, it sounds like the beams and joists are slightly undersized. “Wonky” is generally not a term that inspires confidence. I suggest having an adult bounce in different spots on the floor that you have built while you watch from the ground and see what members are deflecting the most – I suspect at this point that it is the beams. Wonky doesn’t mean that you have a looming catastrophic failure – wood will bend, sag, etc… for a while before it breaks. And let’s face it, backyard treehouses don’t always need to have the same deflection standards that permanent ground homes do.

      Joists: The 2×6 joists probably only should span 9′ or 9’6″ for just a deck. With a house on them, they may need more strength depending on how well the load transfers directly to the beams. Normally, houses are kept further from the tree trunk than the beams are… Also, there is a strength difference between #1 and #2 lumber which may be a material factor in this case.

      Beams: the 4×6 probably is not sufficient to span 12′. We use a lot of treated 4×6, but don’t usually span more than 6′ unless the loads are lighter than normal. You may want to try a double 2×12. I’m a big fan of paralam and PT glu-lam beams for the high stability and strength ratios, but they will cost more money.

      I hope this helps as you consider what to do,

      • Bob Finch says:

        Hi Dan,
        Thanks for the response. As I read it, I went back out and found that some of my measurements were incorrectly written. First of all, my beams are 4×8 treated #2, not 4×6. Sorry. Still probably not big enough, but thought I’d mention it. Also, the diameter of the trees at the point of the TAB’s is 10″, 12″, and 13″, respectively.

        Since the span between the beams is 10′, I’m a little shy with 2×6 joists, based on your notes. So, 2×8 joists would get me the span that I need. If I go to a longer 16′ 2×8 joist, would a 3′ cantilever on each side be good?

        Question 1 – does the larger (4×8) size of the beams make any difference, or is it still undersized? How about once I change the joists to 2×8?

        Question 2 – If I go to a 4×12 beam (4x lumber is cheaper in the WA area than double 2x’s), with the 2×8 joists, are the tree and tree TAB combination, strong enough to support that weight, and the added weight of the treehouse?

        Thanks again. Great site!


        • thb98il1Tr3e says:

          Hello Bob,

          Since you already have the 2x6s, you might try adding more – say 12″ on center. Also, you could add solid bridging to reduce deflection without increasing joist size.

          On the beams, a 4×8 is a lot better and depending on the size of what you are building on top, might be sufficient. Be advised that various species of wood will have different load ratings per dimension.

          I’m sorry to hide behind uncertainties, but this is about as far as I can help you in a general sense on a public forum. Your questions about lumber sizes are generally answered with authority by an engineer licensed in your state. My opinion from Pennsylvania and without seeing drawings is not to be relied upon in the same way. Short of hiring an engineer, you may be able to ask your lumber yard for span tables to help you make a decision in accordance with local standards. Alternatively, we do have an engineer who has a license path in Washington, if you are looking for those services – but unfortunately he won’t start a review without an engagement letter and deposit. So, did you try the “bounce test” I suggested? 🙂


  2. Tanveer says:

    Hi, really don’t know how to start. Im situated in upstate NY. I have 3 30ft high trees which are about 10 ft apart which would form like a right triangle from a birds eye view. If they are in series tree 1 has a diameter of around 26 inch, tree 2 has a diameter about 30 inch and tree 3 has a diameter about 20 inch, the first two are pine the other one maple. I was thinking of making a platform which would be 8′ x16ft with a 6′ by 6′ and 6 ft high house with a tin roof, the rest off the platform would have a deck/ balcony space. The platform I want to be would be 6 ft off the ground, because I was going to incorporate a slide coming off one of the sides and cant have the platform be too high, in addition I wanted the platform to be not just for the kids to play on, but also something not too high for grandma’s to get up to once in awhile. Now im not sure as to what to use as far as holding up the structure. should I use the 3 trees and an additional 4th corner supported on a post, or should I use one tree supporting the platform on the center of the one side, with 2 posts on the other end, or 2 trees on one side and 2 posts on the other side, or just go with 4 posts. but I know these big trees would have big roots, and I wouldn’t be able to put in posts into the ground near the trees.15 feet away I have 6 feet fencing around the property line, the location of these trees are at the back corner portion of my backyard, behind the fence are the neighbors house. So would I have to plant the posts with cement, or could it just sit above ground like swing sets? im thinking maybe I wouldn’t have to plant the post? being that the tree house is not too far up, and the weight of the unit would be able to fight off any winds trying to lift it aloft, and the neighbors houses would also stop momentum of winds? I wanted the trees to be on the sides of the platform , and not going through the platform.. I was going to use a 2 x 10x 16ft beam on the sides of the length, with two 2x10x8ft on the ends off the width, which would have (10) 2x8x8ft joist being 16inch apart….all the lumber . the floor would consist of four 4′ by 8′ plywood panels. The floor and the rest of the lumber I planned on getting would be pressure treated.

    • Hello Tanveer,

      I would have to take a look at a quick sketch with dimensions on it before I could make a recommendation. I suggest you talk with our treehouse supply house because they offer free basic design advice.

      Using a post + 3 floating connections should work. However, as you indicated, there could be other possibilities of perhaps a single or double tree treehouse, possibly with a bridge to a third tree.

      Lastly, 30′ high trees are not normally 20-30″ in diameter. That’s a thick trunk for such short trees. Is is possible that some of these measurements are off?


  3. Jeremy Kelly says:

    We have a cluster of Hickory trees in our back woods that we are wanting to put a platform in. The dimension are 10×10 and we are using four trees to support the structure. Using 4×10 beams, 2×6 joist and decking board for the floor, I’m trying to figure out if the 1×6 TAB with 1” collar is durable enough. I see several different sizes and while I understand that several things go into determining the workload of these TABS, I want to ensure that this smaller size is sufficient. The support trees are about 2-3’ and 5’ apart (span between TABS). While we may be adding a structure on top one day, it is important to me to make sure what I do now can hold more than just this platform. Thanks!

    • Hi Jeremy,

      Good questions. The 1×6 TAB is strong enough to hold 25% of this type of treehouse. Keep in mind, though, that depending on tree layout and structural design issues, some TABs will carry more load than others. The advantages to using a longer perch (9″ or 12″ instead of 6″) are that you can use floating brackets and that you can easily adjust the beams outward as the trees grow. The advantage of using a longer collar (3″ or 6″ instead of 1″) is that the TAB will hold more load or hold it farther out from the tree or a combination of the two. If I were building your treehouse for you, I would probably be grabbing the 3×9 TABs with one fixed pipe bracket and 3 floating brackets. The 1x6s are strong enough, especially in hickory, but after the tree grows a couple inches, you’ll be out of space to adjust outward.

      Good luck,

  4. David says:

    Hi Dan,

    As this seems to be as good of a place as any to get tree house safety advice, I’ll throw my plans out here:

    We had a maple that had to be taken down in our backyard (ants – discovered too late), but had the trunk left in tact right at a split. One part of the split is 10’ tall, 18” in diameter, the other is 12’, 18” in diameter. Looking at it birds eye for planning purposes, I’ve imagined the trunk at the center of a circle, with the 10’ section below the 12’ section.

    The plan is to build a radial house, with 4”x8” beams radiating out 5’ at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. As the tree is dead, I was planning on anchoring into the tree by cutting 6” holes into the trunk and inserting the beams, anchoring with screws, then caulking to seal. Further beams could be added at the 4.5 and 7.5 o’clock positions, attached to the trunk or to a joist between the set beams snug up to the trunk, radiating 5’ out.

    My questions are 2: (1) would knee braces suffice for the beams, or would you go posts? (2) any concerns with anchoring the beams into the tree?


    • Hi David,

      The tree is dead. So go ahead and bore holes or pin beams or do exactly what we typically advise not to do in live trees. No need to use TABs or regular treehouse attachment hardware like you see on our projects. However, be advised that the wood is decaying, and when the roots or trunk decay enough, then the entire structure will become unstable. It’s only a matter of time. So either build it on posts now, or be ready to add them in the future when needed.

      Happy building!

  5. Kate Southall Jones says:

    Hi Dan-

    In your opinion, are 4×4 posts strong enough to support an 11 foot span? We’re building a tree house using three posts and a mature hickory tree as post #4. Each post is just about 11 feet apart, level and secure. Are these posts string enough to hold a beam made with two 2x10s?

  6. Joshua Ryan says:


    If I’m buidling a tribeam using two treehouse tabs and one tab can hold between 8 and 10 thousand punds, does that mean a two tab tribeam can hold 16 to 20 thousand pounds?


    • Marketing says:

      Josh – thank you for your question. We will follow up with you soon.


    • Marketing says:

      Josh – Here is a response from Joe Salinas, our Director of Operations for Tree Top Builders.

      Josh, thanks for contacting us! We’re committed to helping people get up into trees in the safest and most enjoyable ways possible. TAB load calculations can be complicated, and ultimate capacity is a function of TAB geometry, load placement along the perch, installation technique and, most importantly, the properties of the tree you are installing them in. We typically install our standard tribeams using two TABs, one at the lower vertex, where the legs meet and connect to our Double Knee Brace, and one at around the midpoint of the horizontal member. If properly assembled and installed, the load should be distributed more or less equally between the two TABs, thereby “doubling” the load capacity of a single TAB. There are ways of reinforcing one or both TAB, using hardware available through, to further increase the load capacity of your treehouse support system. If you would like more specific information on an estimated load capacity for your system, we do provide engineering services, and have in the past helped treehouse builders get through challenging permitting and design issues.


      Joe Salinas PE, PMP
      TTB Operations

  7. Mark says:

    Good evening
    Could you please tell me what’s the best way to fix floor bearers to a tree.

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